Jeudi - les morts
Big day! I've been waiting to visit Les Catacombes since my last trip, when they were closed. So determined was I, I waited in line for something like 3 hours. Luckily there was a couple standing with me who were traveling from America and were a delight to talk with. (Jack and Jane - if you're reading this, email me about the bicycle trip!). Finally, we descended into the caves beneath the streets of Paris. I had heard all about the catacombs and even seen As Above, So Below, and yet it was nothing like I had imaged it. Six million bodies is a lot of bones. I'm still not sure how to put the experience into words. When it comes to history, this is the kind of thing worth studying. I tried to read the inscriptions on the wall and though with most could only pick out some words, there was one I understood completely: Sometimes it is better to be dead that alive.
So hungry after my long wait and the walk through the caves, I grabbed a croissant au chocolate for a snack and headed to find Shakespeare & Co, which a writer friend had told me was the best bookstore in the world. The place does have a sense of magic!
Last stop for he day, I relaxed at Pamela Popo for a glass of wine (ok, two) and some tapas. This place is so cute, and so are the men there. I had to sneak a picture to show you. Noticing their helmets, I spoke to them in broken french about the motorcycle garage I'd been looking for on the Seine. They either weren't interested in chatting about it, or didn't understand me. Maybe they're scooter riders.